I’ve been sleeping out in the middle of nowhere for over fifty years now. Imagine a just-turned-13yr.old, .410 shotgun in hand, wandering the rabbit fields a morning's march from home. Outfitted by Army Surplus. I'd set up camp and feast on the game collected, emulating in my mind explorers like Lewis and Clark, spending the night. I started out with a blanket roll. Saved the shekels earned from kid-for-hire jobs and soon moved up to an Army Surplus duck feather mummy bag. Eventually, a modern goose down bag. Followed by several down bags–one for every clime.

It was one of those down bags (a high-end Expedition version) that collapsed on a lengthy, frigidly mid-winter trans-Yellowstone ski trip in the early seventies–nearly killing your’s truly. Because of that episode, I was one of the very first purchasers of a then-brand-new “synthetic" bag. (I think it was a Snow Lion–the company is now defunct.) I was ( and still am) a long-range backcountry wanderer, and had decided there was no way I’d trust my very survival to unreliable down again. I’ve owned a jillion synthetic sleeping bags since. I’ve used all the synthetics, and found Polarguard to be the very best, all up, insulation material. My Polarguard-insulated bags have been repaired repeatedly, but the insulation in them has kept on keeping me alive despite many inadvertent soakings, burns, and other misadventures for decades. The bags may have had shortcomings, but not from good old reliable Polarguard, which did exactly what it was supposed to do–provide a fail-safe insulation between me and the indifferent-to-my-demise elements.

With that background, let’s bring this sleeping bag story up to date. A couple of years ago I was conducting a series of sleeping bag tests. I do that every so often...keeping abreast of developments. I asked one company about sending me a bit of material to make a modification to their bag for my own use. The company declined. So I resolved to do it myself; in fact, I'd just do a whole bag. I’ve been asked many times over the years to build sleeping bags. I’ve always been plenty busy with packs, shelters, and such. Just never got to it. Well, I finally did. The program has been underway two years now; of course that’s the “official” part of it—I’ve had fifty years of “unofficial” soak time. Considering my age, my lifelong outdoor passion and my career as an in-the-field professional designer it’s quite possible, even likely, that I’ve logged more nights in sleeping bags than anybody ever has. And, as you might imagine, I've been paying designer-like attention the whole way.

As usual, I started this project with a blank slate. I would shoot for EVERYTHING that I wanted a “sleeping bag” to do. As with everything I carry I wanted “it” to do as much as possible. I’m relentless at that. I recalled those thousands of nights in built-by-others sleeping bags, none of ‘em completely suiting my needs. So I went for the whole deal, getting right in the middle of such cussable deficiencies as zippers that hang up, hood adjustments that that you have to guess at, “confinement”, hot, sticky legs, wimpy or completely absent (!!) draft collar, and on and on. A major goal was to figure out how to "adjust" a bag's rating instead of just automatically having to purchase another bag; or fetching the dead weight of an "overbag". (Asking the right questions is a big part of the design process; so is determination to find the answer.) Another major item on the agenda was taking a serious look at stuff sacks (there had to be a better way!). Durability and reliability were paramount objectives from the get-go. And so was right NOW evacuation provision.

The needs I worked on parallel those of our warriors, whom I signed on to support following the events of 9/11. These sleeping bags are expressly designed for such men. They are more durable and reliable than any sleeping bags ever built. They are built to comfortably accommodate a man with his boots on (indeed, with all his clothes on as well, including armor and second line gear) , or with his boots off but in the bag with him. Thus the very generous foot and lower bag roominess. Other items one wants to keep warm–or dry out–can be stowed inside too of course–sox, wet clothing, water supplies, etc, etc., etc. (The insulation is designed to take it, and the shell material will too.) The whole bag is like that–quite “roomy”, for whatever needs to be inside with the user. There’s more to this roominess aspect. After all these years I have the carry-weight vs. rest-as-recovery equation figured out. REST in one’s bag outweighs any slight carry advantage in getting there. Hot, sticky legs because of a too-tight bag at warm bed-down times interferes with recovery-grade sleep. Too much constriction of movement does too, especially if you don’t have a LOT of regular usage to get accustomed to it; even then, much more restful sleep occurs when you have “enough” wiggle room. I’ve made sure these bags hit that balance of weight vs. wiggle room for restful sleep. I wish I had done it years ago. And every bag has provision for instant evacuation.

I realize this design commitment is NOT the “normal” one dominated by the civilian backpacking world, wherein every ounce of both length and girth is sacrificed on the altar of light-as-possible weight. But fighters don’t get to go home if conditions get awful; they don’t get to “plan” length-of-trip either. Wet clothing, freezing water, and boots...best bring it all inside the bag...and there needs to be enough room (I’ve owned bags I couldn’t get anything else inside but me) for all this, and without collapsing the insulation! Come to think of it, remote hunters have the same needs (bush planes get delayed and passes get snowed in) and, reaching further back into my past, so do expeditioners, who really can’t count on any kind of assured “bail out”.

In short, these are not recreational bags. They’re for LIVING in, for the duration, no matter the circumstances. You can compare the philosophy behind these sleeping bags to that of our tipis: they are not as light as we can possibly make them, but they ARE as light as possible consistent with rock-bottom reliability at keeping you sheltered and alive anywhere, anytime...and still plenty light for man-carrying. Same deal with the sleeping bags. Consider them PHASE II of our Shelter Systems. Nevertheless, the weights on these bags are STILL quite light, as you'll surely notice. This is due to the materials we've selected, which are both lighter and stronger. So we've been able to put some weight back into livability. All up, a very good outcome I think. The materials are very costly; and so is the attention to detail of design and construction, but worth it for the far-from-merely "recreational" tasks visioned for these bags.

The Modular Overbag (MOB) components of the overall Regulator design came to light early in this design quest. Over the years I’ve learned that as one begins to outstrip sleeping bag temperature ratings he feels the encroaching cold in “spots.” For some, it’s the feet first. For others, it’s the shoulders, or upper body The “solution”, up until now, to exceeding a bag’s comfort zone–no matter how incremental-- has been gross overkill: buy a lower-rated bag, or purchase an “overbag”–an entire sleeping bag built to slip over the host bag and provide an increment of warmth when thusly combined with the original bag. Aware of those “spots”, I asked: "why not 'REGULATE' the issue by carrying only PORTIONS of an overbag–the portions needed for addressing the cold spots unique to you, the user?" Thus leaving the rest of the weight of an entire overbag behind. And so that’s what I did–split an “overbag” into three distinct sections. Carry only the the section(s) you need for the conditions at hand. As the seasons transition. Saving the weight and bulk of an entire overbag...or an entirely new sleeping bag.

I quickly realized that, as incremental “elements” of a three-part “overbag” , at least the uppermost segments could also duplicate items of heavy outerwear, if I adapted them carefully to take on that role as well as their sleeping bag temperature-enhancement role. Multifunction–right down my alley! Ergo, the Upper Section of the MOB can handily replace a full-on parka. By zipping on the MOB middle section beneath the upper section you will have very robust leg protection as well, and can leave behind insulated pants. The upshot is that you’ll wind up with very much less weight carried in. Compare the weights of our upper and middle section MOB components to typical parkas and insulated pants. You will likely find that our “overbag”, the MOB, is completely “free” weight. Maybe even weight REDUCTION, because they are actually very much warmer than any convententional clothing available. Our MOB Upper Section has to be experienced to understand. It is “tailored” completely differently than conventional clothing. It’s admirable function in the role of sleeping bag upper section actually enhances dramatically it’s alternative role as a hooded, semi-sleeveless parka. We term it semi-sleeveless because it is designed to cover the shoulders and down over the upper arms quite securely–the most vulnerable areas of heat loss. Only an intermediate layer of normal clothing need be worn to keep the remainder of the arms warm; an ultralight wind barrier garment added directly over the intermediate layer if wind is present– the MOB is thoroughly windproof. Same thing with the Middle Section as alternative to insulated pants. Wear it full length for mitten-compared-to-glove superior warmth. Even folded up to the waist (and drawstring-cinched) for very active use (such as running as compared to walking) it provides the same sort of superior warmth, especially when sitting on its double thickness. Getting back to the Upper Section for a moment, it is designed to pull the arms inside, and zipping up within. In this mode, it is quite simply the warmest garment ever imagined! One has full movement inside, even with full body armor and second line gear mounted. It is the only “garment” to accommodate such equipment. The upshot is this: no finer clothing exists for warrior OP’s, or for hunter stands. And it’s all “free” weight if you leave behind your conventional overbag.and clothing in favor of the MOB. It’s a weight REDUCTION if you are using the complete MOB as your stand-alone sleeping bag, and leaving conventional outerwear behind. Please note that the three components of MOB's are available seperately, or as a Complete unit. Some of you may even want to mix and match--40* Upper Section and 20* Foot Section. You can even aquire a Long Foot for extra storage in wintertime. Etc. The choice is yours.

Both our Base Bags and our MOB’s are designed for immediate bail-out. The zipper on the Base Bags is snag-proof. The MOB’S, when rigged over the Base Bags as overbags, can be snapped closed as an alternative to zippered, so that they will fly open with no impediment whatsoever if, when, the Base Bag is evacuated in emergency mode. (The snaps also serve as extra closure in the event of extreme cold/wind conditions.) Of course the same is true if the complete MOB is used as a stand-alone bag–it can be snapped closed so that immediate evacuation is ensured. (The snaps are designed to release readily in that event.)

What a ride! Finally getting around to sleeping bags has been as challenging a design project as any in my career. But the resulting innovation gives me great satisfaction. Somewhere in my Essays on the website, written near the inception of Kifaru, I say that Kifaru gear is designed at least in part to keep me afield as I age.  This latest project is a perfect example of that quest--lighter than ever sleeping bags.  Lighter even than goose down, if I use the MOB's and leave outerwear at home.  And completely "safe" as well.  I'll probably be using mostly MOB's personally, and "UNDERbagging" as needed with Base Bags.  Fact is, the selection of MOB's will cover ALL my bases, unless I find myself headed for truly Arctic climes in mid-winter.  THEN I can simply underbag my -20 degree MOB come sleep time.

I'm very pleased to be able to add Regulators to my personal quiver of "out there" tools, and I sincerely hope you will be too.

Patrick Smith

February 2007

Golden, CO USA

 

The Regulator™ Sleeping Bag System(Patent Pending) introduces a revolutionary new concept to sleeping bags and sleep systems, offering a thoroughly modular design, using the finest shell material and synthetic insulation available.

The Regulator System™ consists of two Base Bags and three Modular Over Bags (MOB’s), allowing for a temperature range of 70+ degrees F down to -50 degrees F. You will be able to pick and choose components to fit your requirements and needs for a sleep system. As the name implies, the MOB’s will allow you to “regulate” the warmth of your Kifaru Regulator ™ sleeping bag system from head to toe. They consist of an Upper, Mid, and Foot section, that can be zipped together to form a stand alone bag, or can be used selectively installed on our Base Bag to achieve your desired comfort zone. (Please refer to the Specification Charts for the temperature ratings of all the combinations available, along with all the weights of the various components of the system.)

Shell Material
The shell material used in all of the bags is a proprietary fabric called RhinoSkin™, which is an ultralightweight ripstop fabric that is only .9oz sq yd, and comes with a DWR coating. It is a little lighter than Pertex Quantum, yet was proven 2-3 times more puncture proof and tear resistant in testing. The bags will be Foliage Green on the outside, and Camo Green 483 on the inside.

Insulation
The insulation used in the bags is Climashield Combat Insulation, which is the Berry Ammendment Compliant version of their XP insulation. It is a continuous filament fiber synthetic insulation that has all the properties we were looking for in an insulation. It is very compressable, very thermally efficient, and does not need to be quilted, laminated, or glued to the shell fabric. It also has excellent drape, allowing it to conform naturally around the body.

Regulator™ Base Bag™ Features
The Base Bags will come in Regular and Long size (check the Specification Charts for all the dimensions.) The bags are much roomier than typical recreational mummy bags.   -The side zipper is a 2/3 version, allowing one to exit in a hurry by just tucking the legs up and out. All bags will come with a left hand zip to allow uniformity with all the components of the MOB (Modular Over Bag). This will keep the number of components at a minimum consistent with the needs of military units as well as individual operators.

-The hood uses 2 drawstrings through one cord lock, that allow one to independently adjust the hood opening and the neck/throat opening. One drawstring is flat cordage and the other is tubular cordage, making it easy to distinguish without looking, particularly in the dark.
-There is a large, very anatomical, and thickly insulated draft collar for the neck and shoulders.
-The Base Bags come with two wrap-around zippers for attaching the Foot Section and/or the Upper Section of the MOB. (More about this in the MOB description.)   MOB (Modular Over Bag) Features

-The only different component of an MOB Long is the foot section, which is 6" longer. The upper and mid sections are the same.

-Check the Specification Charts for all the dimensions and weights.

The MOB components
The MOB components are what allow you to regulate the warmth provided by a Base Bag as temperatures sink below it’s stand-alone rating. As seasons change toward colder weather, carry and install only the MOB Foot Section if your feet typically get cold first, or add just the Upper Section if your torso is typically the first part of your body to become chilled. If the temperature drops even lower, then carry and zip on both the Foot Section and Upper Section to the Base Bag. In testing, it was found that a persons hips and upper legs are not as vulnerable to the cold as the feet and upper body/head. As it gets even colder, then you can add the complete MOB to the base bag. In this situation, the sections are not zipped to the base bag, but instead are zipped together to form the Complete MOB. The Base Bag is then inserted into the MOB, becoming a Complete Regulator Sleep System™.
There are snap connections at the hood and velcro connections at the footbetween the two bags.

Upper Section
-The Upper Section of the MOB was designed to also be used as an upper garment on it's own. Think of it as a fully featured hooded vest that covers the upper arms as well as the shoulders. The hood opening is adjustable with discernable-by-feel drawstrings (one for neck and one for face) and there is an adjustment on the top/back, allowing you to adjust the peak over the eyes. There is also an insulated neck/face gaitor that is adjustable for height, with a drawstring for a tight seal against the face. This gaitor can be folded over and turned down to provide a double insulated throat collar. There are side zips in the Upper that allow you to have your arms out, or you can pull your arms inside and close the side zips for truly amazing warmth. It's like the difference between gloves and mittens. There is also a drawstring in the hem to seal against drafts. For soldiering, it can be worn over armor and 2nd line gear, without having to remove your gear. There is no upper garment available that will allow you to do this. With the side zips open, and your arms out, you are still able to access your 2nd line gear. The Upper will work great when pulling OP/LP duty, and keeping warm while still having your fighting gear on. When taking breaks after long humps, you can put on the upper over your gear to keep from chilling down. Another aspect to consider, is that the Upper can take the place of an outer garment, saving weight, as it does double duty as part of your sleep system and a garment. Consistent with it’s garment intent, there is a large kangaroo pocket on the front. There is even a notebook pocket inside the kangaroo pocket.

Mid Section
-The Mid Section of the MOB can be zipped to the Upper Section to form an insulated and windproof Cagoule. Left full length, you can still walk in it, and when sitting, there is a drawstring at the bottom that can be closed off either over the lower legs, or tuck the legs in, and seal it shut. When you need more mobility, reach down and pull the bottom of the mid section up and drawstring it at the waist, creating a semi-cagoule length garment. The double insulation provided is far warmer than insulated pants, especially in sitting mode, and eliminates the need for carrying dedicated cold weather pants.

Foot Section
-See above and MOB components section.

 

REVISED April 1, 2008

WEIGHTS - REGULATOR SLICK BAGS

Reg. Length	SLICK BAG ONLY	COMPRESSION SACK	TOTAL
+ 40° Slick Bag	1 lb., 6 oz / .62 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	1 lb., 8.5 oz. / .69 kg.
+ 20° Slick BAG	2 lbs., 0 oz / .90 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	2 lb., 2.5 oz. / .97 kg.
0° Slick Bag	2 lb., 12 oz / 1.24 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	2 lb., 14.5 oz. / 1.31 kg.
Long Slick Bag
+ 40° Slick Bag	1 lb., 7 oz / .62 kg	3.5 oz. / .09 kg.	1 lb., 10.5 oz. / .75 kg.
+ 20° Slick Bag	2 lbs., 2 oz / .97 kg	3.5 oz. / .09 kg.	2 lbs., 5.5 oz. / 1.06 kg.
0° Slick Bag	2 lb., 15 oz / .87 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	3 lb., 1.5 oz. / .94 kg.

 

WEIGHTS - REGULATOR BASE BAGS

Reg. Length	BASE BAG ONLY	COMPRESSION SACK	TOTAL
+ 40° Base Bag	1 lb., 7.5 oz / .68 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	1 lb., 10 oz. / .73 kg.
+ 20° BASE BAG	2 lbs., 2 oz / 1.07 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	2 lb., 4.5 oz. / 1.09 kg.
0° BASE BAG	2 lbs., 14 oz / 1.30 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	3 lb., .5 oz. / 1.37 kg.
Long Base Bag
+ 40° Base Bag	1 lb., 8.5 oz / .69 kg	3.5 oz. / .09 kg.	1 lb., 12 oz. / .79 kg.
+ 20° BASE BAG	2 lbs., 4 oz / 1.07 kg	3.5 oz. / .09 kg.	2 lbs., 7.5 oz. / 1.17 kg.
0° BASE BAG	3 lbs., 1 oz / 1.38 kg	2.5 oz. / .07 kg.	3 lb., 3.5 oz. / 1.46 kg.

 

WEIGHTS - MODULAR OVER BAG, SECTIONS
compression sacks are built in

	UPPER	MID	FOOT	TOTAL
+ 40° MOB Reg.	16 oz / .45 kg	13.5 oz. / .382 kg.	4.5 oz. / .127 kg.	2 lbs., 2 oz. /.96 kg.
+ 20° MOB Reg.	1 lb., 4.5 oz / .65 kg	1 lb., 3.5 oz. / .63 kg.	6 oz. / .18 kg.	2 lbs., 14 oz. 1.30/ kg.
0° MOB Reg.	1 lb., 11 oz / kg	1 lb.,8 oz. / .3 kg.	7 oz. / . kg.	3 lbs., 10 oz. 1.64/ kg.
				does not include built-in stuff sack (fits inside small Stuff sack)
- 20° MOB Reg.	2 lbs. / .96 kg	1 lb., 13.5 oz. / .89 kg.	10.5 oz. / .29 kg.	4 lbs., 8 oz. / 2.1 kg.
				include built-in stuff sack (fits inside small Stuff sack)
+ 40° MOB Long	16 oz / .45 kg	13.5 oz. / .382 kg	5.5 oz. / . kg.	2 lbs., 3 oz.1.44/ kg.
+ 20° MOB Long	1 lb., 7.5 oz / .66 kg	1 lb., 6.5 oz / .63 kg.	8 oz. / . kg.	3 lbs. / 1.36 kg.
0° MOB Long	1 lb., 12 oz / kg	1 lb.,9 oz. / .3 kg	10 oz. / . kg.	3 lbs., 13 oz. 1.72/ kg.
				include built-in stuff sack (fits inside small Stuff sack)
- 20° MOB Long	2 lbs., 2 oz / .96 kg	1 lb., 15.5 oz. / .89 kg. .	14.5 oz. / kg.	4 lbs., 12 oz. / 2.15 kg.
				does not include built-in stuff sack (fits inside small Stuff sack)

 

DIMENSIONS - ALL BAGS

	FITS UP TO	CHEST	HIP	FOOT
Reg. Slick Bag	6 ft., 1 in. / 185 cm.	66.5 in. / 169 cm.	62 in. / 157 cm.	43.5 in. / 110 cm.
Reg. Base Bag	6 ft., 1 in. / 185 cm.	66.5 in. / 169 cm.	62 in. / 157 cm.	43.5 in. / 110 cm.
*Reg. MOB	6 ft., 1 in. / 185 cm..	71 in. / 180 cm.	71 in. / 180 cm.	48 in. / 122 cm.
Long Slick Bag	6 ft., 7 in. / 200 cm.	66.5 in. / 169 cm	62 in. / 157 cm.	43.5 in. / 110 cm.
Long Base Bag	6 ft., 7 in. / 200 cm.	66.5 in. / 169 cm	62 in. / 157 cm.	43.5 in. / 110 cm.
*Long MOB	6 ft., 7 in. / 200 cm..	71 in. / 180 cm.	71 in. / 180 cm.	48 in. / 122 cm.

*The MOB's are even roomier, as they are intended to be used (or worn) without having to remove one's armor and second line gear.  

 

MODULAR OVERBAG AS LAYERS
farenheit black / celsius green
Please note: temperatures stated below are approximate, and will vary slightly with individual's metabolism, clothing and cold tolerance

MOB	ON 20° BASE or SLICK BAG	ON 40° BASE or SLICK BAG	ON 0° BASE or SLICK BAG
+ 40° MOB (+4 celsius) (25 DEG ENHANCEMENT)	brings combo to - 5° ( - 21 C )	brings combo to 15° ( - 9C )	brings combo to -25° ( - ?C )
+ 20° MOB (- 7 celsius) (45 DEG ENHANCEMENT)	brings combo to - 25° ( - 32 C )	brings combo to - 5° ( - 21C )	brings combo to -45° ( - ?C )
0° MOB (32 celsius) (55 DEG ENHANCEMENT)	brings combo to - 35 ° ( - 37 C )	brings combo t - 15 ° ( -26C )	brings combo to -55 ° ( -?C )
- 20° MOB (- 29 celsius) (70 DEG ENHANCEMENT)	brings combo to - 50° ( - 46C )	brings combo to - 30° ( - 34C )	brings combo to - 70° ( - ?C )

 

STUFF SACK & STOW-AWAY BAG SPECS

COMPRESSION SACK	WEIGHT	SIZE
#1	2.5 oz / .07 kg	8.5 X 15 in. / 21 X 38 cm
#2	2.5 oz / .07 kg	10.5 X 15.5 in. / 26 X 39 cm
#3	3 oz / .08 kg	12 X 16 in./ 30 X 40 cm
STOW-AWAY BAGS
Regular	1.5 oz / .04 kg	31" x 13.5"  / 79 X 34 cm
Large	2.5 oz / .07 kg	53" x 13.5" / 135 X 34 cm

STUFF SACK CAPACITY

STUFF SACK	WILL HOLD
#1 (small)	one +40° Base Bag OR 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag OR 20° MOB
	one 40° Base Bag AND 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 20° MOB Upper Section only
	one -20° MOB Upper Section and Foot Section
	one -20° MOB Mid Section and Foot Section
	any Upper and Foot combo
#2 (med.)	one +40° Base Bag OR 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag OR 20° MOB
	one 40° Base Bag AND 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 20° MOB Upper Section only
	one - 20° MOB Upper Section and Foot Section
	one - 20° MOB Mid Section and Foot Section
#3 (large)	one - 20° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 20° MOB
	one 0° MOB

 

STUFF SACK- PACK PLACEMENT
These configurations will fit into specified Kifaru packs in the preferred Internal Frame manner (horizontal, in bottom - see photo)

STUFF SACK & BAG	MILITARY PACKS	HUNTING PACKS
#1 (small)	Scout, Express, Marauder, Zulu, Pointman, Navigator, ZXR, MMR, EMR	DayStalker, SpikeCamp, Late Season, Siwash, LongHunter(s)
#2 (med.)	Express, Marauder, Zulu, Pointman, Navigator, ZXR, MMR, EMR	SpikeCamp, Late Season, Siwash, LongHunter(s)
#3 (large)	Zulu, Navigator, ZXR, MMR, EMR	Siwash, LongHunter(s)

 

STOW-AWAY BAG CAPACITY

STOW-AWAY BAG	WILL HOLD
Regular	one +40° Base Bag OR 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag OR 20° MOB
Large	one +40° Base Bag AND 40° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 20° MOB
	any combination of the above two
	one -20° MOB

 

POD STORAGE

POD SIZE	WILL HOLD
Large	one - 20° MOB
	one 20° Base Bag AND 20° MOB

GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR 24/7 CCS Due to the fact that the human body produces a lot of perspiration
(up to a quart even in one night!), you'll want to air out your clothing
and sleeping bags.
If left unchecked, damp insulation will make your 24/7s less
efficient at trapping heat.
When you get home, air out your gear again thoroughly, and hang or store it
uncompressed in a Stow-Away. Cleaning.
Seasoned folks know that cold weather soft goods rarely get washed,
as the process can reduce the effectiveness of the insulation.
Never dry clean your 24/7 CCS! We recommend hand washing with Nikwax Tech Wash or Woolite,
then hang it over a clothes line.

Greetings from the frozen north.

It's been a blessing and a very miserably cold week up here in Fairbanks, AK as I tested the -50 combo (20 dergee base bag w/70 degree Modular Over Bag).

Here was the temperature breakdown for the last three nights of testing:

Thursday, Feb 22: -37 degrees Fahrenheit
Friday, Feb 23: -41 degrees Fahrenheit
Saturday, Feb 24: -47 degrees Farenheit

On all three nights I placed the bag outside my test lab (in my back yard) at least an hour prior to climbing in. I left the bag zipped and laying on the standard issue GI thermarest self inflating pad (although up here I always inflate with extra breaths for maximum loft and firmness. On a true in the woods winter expediton I'm almost certainly using more than one ground pad. Usually my thermarest backed up with my crazy creek chair converted into a 3/4 length ground pad.

The bag configuration was the 20 degree Regulator bag inside of the 70 degree MOB.

The long underwear I used was the standard SPEARS layer 1. I was going to start off in layer 1 and layer two, but decided to start off with my base layer and add more layers if I needed to.
I just wore standard capilene boxer briefs for my main underwear.
And no t-shirt under the long underwear top.

I used this method because on a prolonged expedition in the field I want to avoid overheating and sweating in my underlayers as much as possible.

For footwear I started off in my army issue heavyweight wool socks and my down booties, but took off the booties in order to not skew the test data.

I wore the standard army issue polartec fleece hat and used the issue wool glove liners.

On all three nights I slept outside from 2300 (1100 PM) until right around 0500 (had to go to work), with the exception of this morning when I slept/lounged in the bag until almost 0700.

With the exception of a reoccuring injury that causes very poor circulation in my lower left leg/foot, the foot box section of the bag was very warm. This is usually the portion of most bags that gets cold on almost all users first. When my left foot did start to get cold I just did leg lifts or slid my left leg back and forth vigorously in the bag.

The mid section of the bag was more than enough insulation to keep my thighs, and lower abdominal region warm. I don't know of many men who get too cold in a bag around the middle section(although selling high end sleeping bags for the last four years at outdoor retail stores I have come across a few).

The upper torso section and hood is where the Regulator and MOB earn their pay. I've used about every higher end bag under the sun (or lack of up here) during my previous tour at Fort Wainwright, and I've used two really high end down bags and the issue MSS sleep system since I've returned to Fairbanks in November.

The MSS fails miserably because the draft collar is too small. It's almost cosmetic at best and contains very little insulation. The two down bags I used had plenty of insulation in the draft collar but did not posses the proper cut/style to completely eliminate the bellow type affect that occurs when you roll over or adjust positions. inside the bag. During less severe temperatures this fact of life can be an annoyance at best and make you miserable at worst. Here in the arctic and sub-arctic a poorly sealed or cut draft collar is miserable at best and dangerous at worst in that you need to conserve every ounce of energy and all the body heat you can to survive and function in the extreme cold. You'll loose enough just trying to tend to all of your basic camp chores, and life sustaining activities.

The Regulator and MOB both have a unique design to the draft collar that is cut higher than standard draft collars and is more trapeziod style in construction. The top (smaller end of the trapeziod) of the bag is cut with a slight concave curve to cover and seal in your body heat and keep outt he cold. Even while rolling over (I'm mostly a side sleeper) the length and cut of the draft collar do not create the bellow affect and eliminates those sudden blasts of cold air that ruin an otherwise warm, comfy night in your bag.

So after three nights of open air bivies in the Regulator with the 70 degree MOB (remember that adds 70 degrees to the warmth of the bag) my overall assesment thus far is this bag lives up to the reputation, quality, and reliability that Kifaru is synonymous for.

Please note I haven't used this bag in the field yet. Just overnight bivy at the house, but This coming weekend is going to be just as cold and I have some much needed down time to load up my EMR and head off to the White Mountains for some true sub-zero 50 below temperatures. I have every confidence that I'll be reporting just as much positive test feedback next week too.

Note: To have a more objective test study I plan on using a few different testers this week and next. I'll use everything from an individual who's lived in Fairbanks and hunted and camped up here his whole life to an instructor at the Army's Northern Warfare Training Center.

Warm nights and pleasant dreams from the great north.

dan

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Kifaru's Response

Hello Dan,

Thanks for the update. As you may have noticed, you can unsnap the neck sections between the MOB and Base Bag a little, then pull up and use the MOB Neck Gaitor in addition to the Base Bag draft collar. I'm wondering if you're doing that. Very effective additional enhancement.

I do hope you'll be using the MOB Upper and Middle Sections as garments whilst you're out in the White Mountains. And let us know how that goes too. I think you'll find the normal intermediate insulative clothing will do well, even tho you're partially "armless" on the exterior garment when using the Upper MOB in that role. I use a 4oz. Ibex windparka over my intermediate insulation if the wind's a factor...just to windproof my arms. You of course can put your arms inside the MOB, but we're talking about getting on with the activities of the day.

Thanks again for the report.

Shell: both Base Bags and Modular Over Bags useour proprietary RhinoSkin™. The lightest, yet toughest material available with an excellent DWR finish with a new level of durability.This ripstop fabric isonly .9oz sq yd - a little lighter than Pertex Quantum, yet was proven 2-3 times more puncture proof and tear resistant in testing. It's tough enough for military applications; and for any back country use.  Boots-in-the-bag? No problem.

 

 

 

Insulation: we use ONLY the new Climashield Combat Insulation. Continuous filaments provide superior strength, moisture resistance, durability, thermal efficiency and excellent drape properties.
It is a continuous filament fiber synthetic insulation that has all the properties we were looking for in an insulation. It is very compressable, very thermally efficient, and does not need to be quilted, laminated, or glued to the shell fabric. It also has excellent drape, allowing it to conform naturally around the body. Its continuous filament provides breathability - moisture is released from your body and not trapped, avoiding a clammy feel. You get warmth, even in wet conditions.
Thousands of continuous strands of polyester are spread into a naturally interlocking insulation. This stability means no heavy shell is needed, letting us cut the weight and bulk of your bag dramatically.
Other benefits include:
- highest thermal efficiency possible
- water resistant
- fast drying
- no fiber migration

Colors:
interior: camo green 483
exterior: foliage green

 

 

 

I awaken beside my favorite high country trout lake.  It’s August.  The temperature is 41*.  I’m in my 40* MOB complete bag.  I unzip both sides of the upper section, partially, and slip my arms out.  Start the fire in my small woodstove in my SuperTarp/Annex shelter and put coffee and water on top.  Slip my arms back inside and contemplate the day ahead as the shelter warms and breakfast heats.  Waiting ‘til the tent is cozy before exposing any part of my savvy hide.   Minutes later I poke the arms back out, slide my field chair into position, and sit up.  Undo the Annex door and watch the lake for fish whilst having breakfast.  Still in my MOB against the chill from the open door...only my arms are outside it’s warming goodness.  Pull ‘em back inside between sips/bites.  Looking to see if the trout are rising.   They are!  I wolf down the remainder of breakfast, unzip the foot section of the MOB, slip on my camp shoes, grab my pole and head down to water’s edge.  Sit on my favorite casting boulder.  The boulder is cold, but the mid section of the MOB insulates my backside, no worries.  Life is good.  So is the fishing. I spend the rest of the day hiking to higher lakes.  Base camp stays put.  The wind is up and it’s cool and gray, so I’m wearing the upper section still.  The mid section is in my pack if it gets any cooler/windier than it already is.  I spend the windy cool day fishing the higher lakes.  Come evening I’m cooking fish back at base camp.  Still wearing the upper section because the tent is open wide for sunset watching.  I’ve zipped on the mid section again.   After supper I read in the field chair and watch stars as they appear.  Eventually, the words begin to blur.  It’s bedtime.  I zip on the foot section and lay myself down to sleep.  In the morning I’ll move along.  My kit is light.   I’ve left parka and wind pants at home.  Formerly a single purpose item of gear, my new sleeping bag is an MOB, and it’s serving double duty-- covering their functions now.   Better, in fact.   I’m moving lighter and freer than ever before.  Life is good indeed.

Q. I'm trying to decide which combo to buy. How airtight are the MOB's when used as a stand alone bag? This is the toughest gear choice ever.

A. I initially thought I would notice some degree of "leak" at the joints between the MOB Sections. But that hasn't turned out to be the case. Basically, I can't feel the difference between the MOB's and the Base Bags. It must be because we've put a baffle over the zippered joints. The baffle is also the location for the drawstring used to snug the piece up for windproofness when wearing it as a garment. Which means you can ever-so-slightly snug the baffle over the joint when you're using the MOB in sleeping bag mode. But, again, I don't seem to notice any leakage even when I don't take that extra step...which is now most of the time. We have a pretty effective seal in the basic design. _________________________________________________

Q. Patrick, I almost hate to ask, but what is the girth going to be on the standard bag? I'm asking since you said production of a wider version was going to be delayed, and unfortunately, I'm a little wide myself and was looking forward to a wide bag. :rolleyes:
Mike

A. the present bags are 66 1/2" girth. Standard mountaineering bags are 59". We've had some very big guys do well in them. ___________________________________________________________

Q. Patrick.
How does one determine the temp rating of a bag from a manufacturing standpoint?
Is it based on the stats of the insulation, Bag construction or combo of the two?

A. In our case, it's determined by my sleeping in the bag.
Down to the point I get chilled, then back up to where I don't. This involves many, many nights chasing the temperatures I need to determine the rating(s). It's one reason for the lengthy time put into this project. Dan Garcia in AK is confirming the lowest ratings on the lowest pieces of the the system. By the time Dan signed on I had enough experience with the elements--design, materials, etc.--that I knew my predictions on those units were very close. Dan's tests thus far are right in line with those predictions; if anything, I was conservative in the predictions. More from him is still coming in, and we'll do some final adjustments based on that input. Or not. We may find that we'll sit tight with my original ratings estimates.

I'm the Chief guinea pig, in other words. It's an accurate method. Perhaps you'll recall that Ed T. and I were testing new sleeping bags from many manufacturers...this was about two and a half years ago...before I decided to build my own. I tested a bag that declared itself to be a 35*F bag; and found it was actually a 45* bag. Another that said 32*, and by golly it was exactly that. Along about that time Backpacker Magazine came out with an issue on sleeping bags. Their testers positioned those two bags precisely where I had just personally rated them--45* for the bogus rated bag, and exactly 32* for the truthfully rated bag. Ergo, my findings jibe with a cross-section of Backpacker Magazine testers. I suppose we can say that I'm a pretty good guinea pig. The ratings I put on our bags can be trusted, within the range of variances between "cold" and "warm" sleepers, because I've actually used them successfully down to the temperatures cited.
Bottom line: the ratings on these bags, and Sections of bags, are derived from field testing, not theory. I don't know how other manufacturers derive their ratings. _____________________________________________

Q. I'm trying to decide which combo to buy. How airtight are the MOB's when used as a stand alone bag? This is the toughest gear choice ever.

A. I initially thought I would notice some degree of "leak" at the joints between the MOB Sections. But that hasn't turned out to be the case. Basically, I can't feel the difference between the MOB's and the Base Bags. It must be because we've put a baffle over the zippered joints. The baffle is also the location for the drawstring used to snug the piece up for windproofness when wearing it as a garment. Which means you can ever-so-slightly snug the baffle over the joint when you're using the MOB in sleeping bag mode. But, again, I don't seem to notice any leakage even when I don't take that extra step...which is now most of the time. We have a pretty effective seal in the basic design. ______________________________________________________________

Q. How does Climashield stack up against Polarguard?

A. Perhaps i should make clear that Climashield Combat is a very big step-up
from Polarguard in many important ways. Drapier (extemely important to warmth),
more compressable, lighter per warmth, etc., etc. The reason I sometimes
cite Polarguard is in reference to outstanding DURABILITY, which
Combat shares with the older insulation. And which is a very good thing too.
Climashield is so tough it doesn't have to be quilted, glued,
whatever, to stay put...making it even MORE desireable than
the older stuff in terms of warmth-to-weight!